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Most pools in Australia are saltwater pools and do not need liquid chlorine, as they produce their own. Though sometimes, the pool might need more chlorine than can be made at once, and so dosing with chlorine can solve problems. Above ground pools usually use dry calcium based chlorine because it is not as corrosive as liquid chlorine. In ground pools usually use liquid chlorine because it is cheaper. Saltwater pools should only use sodium based chlorines such as liquid or stabilised powder chlorine. Calcium granular chlorine leaves a residual of calcium behind, that is the white substance you have to clean off the chlorinator cell. Why would you add more to be attracted to the cell? Large doses of calcium chlorine will cause cloudiness.

No. Natural evaporation is between 2-4cm per week depending on wind and heat, and only water is removed with evaporation. Salt and Stabiliser do not evaporate.

Salt is Salt… Right? Not necessarily!
‘Salt’ is Sodium Chloride (NaCl) but to be used for human consumption it needs to be a certain purity and grade (size). Pool salt does not have to meet these requirements but the purity as well as grade still matter! Cheap pool salt is cheap for a reason. It is nowhere near as pure or refined as the Olsson’s pool salt that we use.

There are several other minerals in the salt such as iron and manganese, and if these are not removed during processing, then the salt can and will stain your pool. The cheap salt also has a very course grade and is like rock salt. You need to spend ages brooming it in to dissolve it, or it will stain your pool. Olsson’s pool salt is ultra refined to a point where it is fast dissolving enough that barely have to broom it in at all.

Next time you are in your local pool shop, ask for Olsson’s Premium Fine Fast Dissolving Salt. When it comes to refinement, there is no comparison. If they don’t have it… we do 🙂

Probably nothing! It is almost certainly Tropic Ear, a fungus growth caused by dampness in the ear. A Doctor can fix it very quickly, better still, teach your children to dry inside their ears as soon as they get out of the pool.

It’s most likely that the pH level is either too high or too low, very occasionally the chlorine is too high. More often than not it is simply that the children have been swimming underwater for long periods with their eyes open.

Bright orange/red stains that look like a sun burst are probably “reo rust” i.e. the steel reinforcing rods in the pool shell are rusting through. These can not be treated chemically. The pool needs to be drained to fix them properly.

Organic Stains: Light coloured stains caused by leaves, debris, dirt, algae etc.

If on the walls… For Pebble and Marble interiors dissolve 1kg of LoChlor “Multi-Stain Remover” into the pool and scrub using stainless steel brush. For all other interior types use a nylon brush.

On the floor or step areas… Pebble and Marble interiors or slate steps, scrub using stainless steel brush first then sprinkle 500gms of Granular Chlorine or LoChlor “Multi-Stain Remover” over stains, leave filter off and allow to settle for 2 hours, scrub again then run filter 2 hours. For larger areas use 1kg Granular Chlorine instead. All other interior types use as nylon brush and only allow to settle for 20 minutes.

Inorganic Stains: Darker reds, oranges, blues or blacks caused by metals.

The most common inorganic stains are caused by copper – introduced usually through copper-based algaecides and result in a blue or blacked stain – and iron – Introduced through salt or other steel object being left in the pool, coloured red or orange. Add 1kg LoChlor “Salt Stain Remover” per 50,000lts. If the water turns cloudy then add 1lt clarifier per 50,000lts and run filter till clear, then clean filter. Turn the salt chlorinator off and do not add chlorine for 24hrs before and after treatment.

While we don’t usually recommend adding dry chlorine – liquid chlorine provides several advantages over dry chlorine – sometimes it is unavoidable or necessary. There’s a particular method to get the most out of dry chlorine, and adding dry chlorine any other way will clog up your filter and/or send the water cloudy.

1. Add desired amount of dry chlorine to a bucket of pool water. Never add any more than 500gms per bucket of water.
2. Stir well for 2 minutes and allow to stand for 20 minutes. Do not restir.
3. Pour liquid only into pool. Dispose of residue. It makes a good weed killer but do not put in wheelie bin.

Lack of chlorine and or lack of circulation.

The correct amount of chlorine stabiliser must be used. For an average 50,000 litre pool the filtration must be running for at least 4 hours per day during winter and 8 hours per day in summer.

Causes of low chlorine:

• Chlorine Pools – must have the correct amount of chlorine added each day
• No stabiliser present to protect chlorine from UV rays
• Saltwater pools – Insufficient salt
• The salt cell needs cleaning
• Insufficient running hours
• Breakdown of salt chlorinator
• Black spot & green algae will burn up chlorine very quickly

A cloudy pool is usually the first sign of a pool turning green, so any of the above reasons could apply. A pool can go from clear to dull to cloudy to green in only 48h. Additionally, it can also be caused from…

• Minute dust particles
• Calcium from granular pool chlorine
• Filter system not working properly

Black spot algae usually develops when sanitiser levels are too low for some time. It’s not uncommon for it to establish after a pool has been green a few times. Black spot algae is small to medium raised spots, some as big as your thumb nail and it’s actually dark green when you scrape it off with your finger nail. Sometimes it’s confused with Osmosis which only occurs in Fibreglass pools where as Black spot algae only occurs in Pebble & Marble interiors, slate steps as well as waterline tiles. The reason it is hard to get rid of is because it digs itself into the surface and has a waxy membrane to protect it. That’s why it’s important to scrub it regularly during treatment, to allow the chemicals to get in.

Treatment: Walls and floor or in tile grouting…

1. Turn salt chlorinators off till the next day for this treatment.
2. Dilute and add 200mls Hydrochloric acid per10,000lts, run filter 1 hour.
3. Add 1lt Liquid Chlorine per 10,000lts, run filter 1 hour.
4. Dilute and add 200mls organic copper Algaecide per 10,000lts, run filter 2 hours.
5. The Following day, scrub with a stainless steel brush.

Treatment: Floor only…

1. Turn filter off and sprinkle LoChlor “Blackspot 900” Granular Algaecide over spots
2. Allow to settle for 2 hours then scrub using stainless steel algae brush.
3. Note: For bad infestations do both the above treatments.

There is a plague of this persistent algae in Brisbane at the moment. It’s a yellow/brown colour and looks like sediment on the floor of the pool. If you vacuum it away and it’s back the next day, chances are it’s Mustard Algae and NOT sediment. This strain of algae can be difficult to get rid of and is virtually immune to chlorine. We have been working on a solution with our industry partners and this is what we found is the most effective method to remove this type of algae.
Based on a 50,000 lt pool…

1. Vacuum algae manually to “waste”, not through the filter. Backwash the filter or clean the cartridge.
2. Put all pool cleaning equipment and toys etc stored near the pool into the water. Leave your auto pool cleaner in the pool but not connected.
3. Move any outdoor furniture away from the pool area and hose clean. Do not return furniture to pool area for at least one week. Wash all swimwear in scalding water.
4. Dilute and add 1lt LoChlor “Miraclear Pool Clarifier” to the pool.
5. Dilute and add 2.5lt LoChlor “Algae Knock-out” to the pool.
6. Sprinkle in to pool 1kg each of LoChlor “Shock and Swim” and Stabilised Chlorine.
7. Broom walls and floor. Run the filter for 4 hours.
8. Next day, connect your auto pool cleaner and run as normal. The following day, backwash the filter or clean the cartridge.
9. If the Algae returns or is still visible after 7 days then the treatment must be repeated. 250mL of LoChlor “Algae Knock-out” per week will usually keep it at bay.
10. Take a water sample to your nearest pool professional for analysis.

First establish that’s what it is … Osmosis only occurs in Fibreglass pools where as Black spot algae only occurs in Pebble & Marble interiors, slate steps and waterline tiles. It is seen as very small grey spots usually with streak lines running through them not to mention may be lumps in the Gelcoat. It is a cosmetic condition of the Gelcoat and poses no threat, it simply looks horrible.

If the pool is over 15 years old, has bad Osmosis, or it’s Winter…

• Initially – add 2lts Hydrochloric acid per 10,000lts, run 4 hours.
• Weekly – add 500mls Liquid Chlorine per 10,000lts.
• September – Dissolve and add 200gms Buffer per 10,000lts per day for 6 days.
• Take sample of water to the pool shop for testing as well as fine tuning to get your pool ready for swimming again.

When the pool is under 15 years old, minor Osmosis, or it’s Summer…
Sprinkle in 200gms stain remover per 10,000lts. Repeat dosage after 7 days if some spots remain. Do not super chlorinate for 7 days before or after each treatment.

Firstly determine the rate of water loss. Expected losses are 0.5 to 1 inch during Winter and 1 to 2 inches during Summer per week. This can also depend on the position, shade cover, and wind exposure – wind can often take more water out than heat! Also look at how the pool is being used, kids jumping and splashing will remove water too. The average leak is approximately 1 inch per day.

Sometimes cracks appear in the marble finish of a concrete pool. These are normally only in the marble itself, which is about 1 inch thick. For the actual concrete shell to crack, which is approximately 6 to 8 inches thick, is unlikely. If the main shell is cracked, obviously, there is a serious problem.

Leaks can be from the interior e.g. vinyl liner, the plumbing, the back of eyeballs, around the front edge of skimmer boxes, down backwash lines, behind light fittings e.g. through the conduit, hydrostatic valves, bottom bungs in older Filtrite skimmer boxes etc.

Once you determine that there may be a leak, follow these procedures to eliminate the simplest and most obvious causes first.

• Always check the backwash line or waste valve on the filter first. Remove the backwash pipe fitting, turn the pump on and run in the ‘”filter” position. Check for water leaking down the drain. If it is, then the backwash valve gasket will need replacing. If you have a cartridge filter, check to see where the waste water goes and that it is not leaking down the drain.
• Fill the pool to its correct level and mark the pool interior with a pencil.
• Run the filter all day and note the water level after 24 hours.
• Turn the filter off for 24 hours and note the drop. Is there a significant difference? Does the pool leak more with the filter on or off? If the pool loses less water when the filter is off, this suggests the leak is in the plumbing.
• Check the pump while it’s running, does it seem to be sucking air or turbulating in the bowl? This indicates it could be in the suction line. Also check the return jets, do any or all of them appear to be spitting air back into the pool? This could indicate it’s in the return line.
• Next troubleshooting step is to simply let it leak. Every 24 hours make a note of the drop, this will indicate the rate of loss and help to identify the leak. We usually require about 5 to 7 days to help determine where the problem may be. If the water stops at the bottom of the skimmer box entrance it may be in the suction line. If it stops at the return jets, it may be in the return line. However if it keeps going past the returns, it could be the Hydrostatic valve in the floor of the pool. Please note that vinyl pools do not have one.
• The next step is for a qualified service technician to go onsite and do some dye testing etc.

If you have a filter with a backwash valve it is simple. Turn the valve handle to “waste” and run the pump until the required level is reached. Do not move the handle while the filtration is running. If you have a cartridge filter you may have a waste valve, if not then water can be siphoned out with your garden or vacuum hose.

Three things shorten the life of your chlorinator cell…

1. Running the filtration for long periods on low levels of salt.
2. Cleaning the cell in too strong a solution of acid. Always use a proper cell cleaning solution.
3. Not cleaning the cell often enough, leaving a build up of calcium.

Salt water pools are easier to look after because they make the chlorine for you, which also means they are cheaper to run. The water is softer and much nicer to swim in. It also solves most eye irritation problems because the required salt level is the same as the salinity of our eyes. There are more salt pools in Australia than any other form of sanitisation.

During Summer: 2 x 4hrs daily / During Winter: 2 x 2hrs daily

Salt cell cleaning procedure…
Normal units should be done monthly. Self Cleaning units should be done yearly.

1. Turn pump off.
2. Remove cell lead.
3. Remove cell and soak plates only (not brass terminals) in a proper salt cell cleaning solution for 30 minutes. Hydrochloric acid will shorten the life of the cell by attacking the plates.
4. Remove cell and rinse with clean water.
5. Refit cell making sure the brass terminals are clean & tight.

Glass Media filters are the lowest maintenance, not to mention the most popular. They clean down to 15 microns and have a backwash valve for ease of cleaning. The glass media lasts about 12 years.

Sand filters are low maintenance, and still quite popular. They clean down to 20 microns and have a backwash valve for ease of cleaning. The sand media lasts about 8 years, and most sand filters can be replaced with Glass media.

Cartridge filters clean down to 15 microns and are ideal for above ground pools as well as where water is scarce. They do not have a backwash facility so you need to hose out the cartridge element manually. A cartridge element lasts about 5 years.[\vc_toggle]

Backwashing Procedure…

1. Always turn the pump off before moving the valve handle.
2. Select the “Backwash” position and turn on pump.
3. Run for 2 minutes or till sight glass is clear. Turn off the pump.
4. Select the “Rinse” position and turn on pump.
5. Run for 1 minute or till sight glass is clear. Turn off the pump.
6. Select the “Filter” position and turn on pump. “Waste” is used to lower the water level or vacuum direct to waste. “Recirculate” is used when the pool is green so it doesn’t clog up the filter. “Closed” is only ever used when the filter is below water level.

The first thing to do is clean the filter. If you have a sand filter, you can use the setting “recirculate” which skips over the sand. If flow only improves on “recirculate”, the filter media may need to be replaced. If flow does not improve, the impellor in the motor may be blocked from debris. Check your pump basket for cracks, and check your pump lid for cracks and the condition of the pump lid O-ring.

The mechanical seal needs replacing. It is important to have this simple repair done as soon as possible or further more expensive damage to the bearings will occur.

The bearings and mechanical seal need replacing, if left the pump will eventually seize up.

The water level is too low, it should be at least half way up the skimmer box opening, with about 2 cm (1″) gap at the top. Don’t forget to bleed the air out of the filter!

Either the water level is too high, drop the water level to 2 cm below skimmer opening, or the weir door is missing.

Multiply average length by average width by average depth in metres, which equals volume in kilolitres (1000s of litres).

We are happy to help you evaluate any quotes. We can point out the differences between the quotes and make sure you are comparing the same thing. Always make sure they are a SPASA member and have a BSA license.

Nature 2 Spa treatment Program

Daily: Filter 2 hours without use plus when using spa.

Weekly: For light use (once or twice a week) sprinkle 1 level lid of LoChlor “Shock and Swim” into spa. Use 2 level lids for heavy use (3 times or more a week).

Monthly: Sprinkle in 1 level lid of LoChlor “Iluka SeaChange”. Hose filter cartridge using high pressure nozzle.

4 monthly: Add 500mL Spa Protector Conditioner and run pump for 1 hour. Drain spa completely, wipe clean and refill. Soak filter cartridge in warm water and hose cartridge using high pressure nozzle. Place a Nature 2 spa purifier inside your filter cartridge.